![]() “Whatever the chefs love to cook is what it will be” was how Melman described the concept last fall. Nothing fancy, just clever stuff: deviled eggs surrounded by a deconstructed potato salad, Caesar salads with fried capers subbing for croutons, and golden tomato gazpacho drizzled with olive oil. John Chiakulas, Rita Dever, and Susan Weaver, all veterans of Lettuce Entertain You’s test kitchen, load Beatrix’s affordable menu with bright flavors and enough flourishes to keep things interesting. #BEATRIX ON THE RIVER HOW TO#Instead of choosing a trend, Melman handpicked chefs who know what people like and how to give it to them. “But the guest is the most important part of the equation.”Īt Beatrix, Rich Melman’s latest helping of Lettuce, the chefs and customers want the same thing. “For success in a hotel, it takes a manager or owner that understands people and can differentiate what a chef wants from what diners want and have an even mix,” says Lee Wolen, executive chef of the highly acclaimed Lobby at the Peninsula. Some places outsource their restaurants to established restaurateurs such as the Boka Restaurant Group, which opened Paul Virant’s eminently likable Perennial Virant in the Hotel Lincoln before the hotel was even finished a renovated Renaissance Blackstone gave itself over to Jose Garces’s colorful Spanish machinations at Mercat a la Planxa. Now that the hotel industry has been dragged across its patterned carpets into the land where the rest of the dining world moved years ago, good things have followed. I’m happy to report that those have become the exceptions.
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